It is so easy and with a bit of practice anyone can do it. I'm going to give away a class so if I'm ever asked to teach at Bond Camp again and this is offered I expect you to pretend it is new to you and all take the class!
Draw the schematic below.
_________
|
| e
> toe < -------------------------2
| ____d___|_e__________
-------------
|
|
}
|
Foot
|
}B
} H
|_____________________|
-------------
|
| e
> Heel < -------------------------3
|____d____| e__________
------------
|
|
}C
}
|
Leg
|
} G
|_____________________| ---------
4 ------------
A
Do the following:
1. Make a swatch and calculate gauge
2. Measure around your foot at the ball of the foot or fattest part of foot. Multiply this measurement times stitch gauge. This is A and is the cast on number. Record both inches and stitches next to A on the schematic.
3. Measure your foot from the back of the heel to the tip of the toe. Multiply times row gauge. This is B and is the measurement between #2 and #3. Record both inches and rows next to B on the schematic.
4. Measure your leg from heel on the floor to where you want the sock to come on the leg. Multiply time row gauge. This is C and is the measurement between #3 and #4. Record both inches and rows next to C on the schematic.
The heel is thought to be 1 inch wide for a child and 1.5 inches wide for an adult. You can measure yours if you want.
Multiply this times the stitch gauge and record between > and< on the heel and toe boxes of the schematic.
When you knit a sock you cast on, knit the leg rows and use half of the cast on stitches to short row the heel. So divide the cast on number by 2 and record at d on the bottom of the heel and toe boxes.
Subtract the number between >and< from d. This will give you the number of rows needed to short row in. The same number of rows will be used to short row back out. Record at e - all four of them.
Divide e by the row gauge to get the number of inches short rowed.
Subtract e from C to get actual rows needed to knit leg length and record at G.
Subtract e, two times from B to get rows needed to knit foot length and record at H.
Cast on A stitches. Knit G rows. *Use d numbers of stitches (rest in hold position) to short row down to > <. Short row back out to d number of stitches*. Push all needles to working position and knit H rows. Repeat *to*. I take the toe stitches off on a double pointed needle. I take the remaining foot stitches off on a second double pointed needle. Later I kitchener stitch them together and sew up the seam.
For the second sock, I shift the heel and toe boxes to the right edge of the schematic. Now the seams can be worn towards the center and are unnoticable.
Hope I've included everything. Hard to do off the top of my head. If you have any questions let me know.
Jennie in Moneta, VA
Notes by Ann:
The red lines are joined as you knit - going from 4 to 3 the first red line is the stitches on hold, the second is where they are picked up to start knitting again. So in terms of the fabric there is no break. But drawings are 2 dimensional even when fabric is 3 dimensional!
The fuschia lines at the end and on the toe are where you will stitch the toe seam (the ones you take off on the double pointed needles).