Small Adults Size (1 inch square)
These instructions were written with the beginner in
mind. All care has been taken to insure the accuracy of these instructions. Feel free to share. Enjoy learning and knitting from Bar&C knits.
Only the Cut and Sew Commercial Neckband is free to share. All Patterns from Bar&C Knits retain their copyright.
Any questions write to Barbara Dieke, 615 Deercreek Ln, Leander TX 78641.
Or you can email me at BarKnits@msn.com
Knitting machine with Ribber (no electronics are used)
Cast-on comb
Weights
3/8 inch X 30 inch bar weight (optional)
Loop gauge (see below on how to make)
Small amount of interfacing for template
Pins
Sewing machine
Take a plastic one-inch mini-blind slat and cut it down to 3/4 inch wide.
1. Trace the size of the desired template on light to medium weight interfacing. Mark center and size (this template can be reused).
2. Pin the template to the blocked garment at top center. Stitch a straight line about 1/8 to 1/4 inch just outside of template. Sew a zigzag stitch over the straight stitch. Cut out neck opening leaving 1/8 to 1/4 inch of fabric inside of neck opening.
3. Measure the neck opening to insure that it is large enough to slip over head.
4. Take garment front and back pieces to knitting machine to determine the amount of needles needed for neckband.
A) Fold front neck opening in half and place center of neckline on 0 of main bed, stretching the folded neckline to the right of 0 across the main bed. This will be half the needle needed for the front neckband. Multiply this number by 2 plus 1 needle.
Example:
Half of front neck opening equals:
33 needles x 2 = 66 + 1 = 67 needles to be use right of 0.
B) For back neck opening repeat A. Except measure from 0 to left of 0.
***There will be fewer needles to the left of 0.
Example:
Half of back neck opening equals:
29 needles x 2 = 58 +1 = 59 needles to be use left of 0.
Refer to your Instruction Manual for Ribbing attachment; in order to set up for a 1x1 rib or 2x2 rib.
**** Don't forget to use cast-on comb and 3 weights.
**** Note center the cast on comb with the knitting not the machine.
Your finished rib will be folded over onto itself so your will need to knit twice the amount needed to get the height you need.
I like to knit 21 rows of rib for a child garment, and between 31 to 41 rows of rib for an adult garment.
Carriage will be on the left.
1. Transfer stitches from main bed to ribber bed, remove weights and cast-on comb.
2. Drop the right hand side of ribber bed. Pick up the selvedge edge and hang on to the main bed.
****Be careful not to catch the gate pegs.
You should have the same amount of needles on main bed and ribber bed.
3. Place the bar weight between the beds; or rehang cast-on comb and weights. Close beds (this will fold your rib in half, no need to sew later).
4. Increase Tension for single bed knitting (about 2 sizes).
Knit one row in full needle rib to close knitting. Carriage is on the right.
5. Set up for circular knitting to make a sandwich. RC 00 Knit 8 rows (example: 4 rows on the main bed and 4 rows on ribber bed) Sandwich is knitted. Carriage will be on the right.
Example:
126 needles set for rib
Cast on using cast on comb and weights.
Row count 00
Rib tension 4
Knit 21 rows carriage on left
Follow steps 1, 2, and 3.
Tension 6 knit 1 row in full needle rib.
Row Count 00
Set up for circular knitting
Knit 8 rows carriage on right
1. Remove the weights and drop the ribber bed to the middle position.
2. Lay the garment over the main bed (right side of knitting up. Front garment on right side of 0 and back garment on left side of 0) so that the cut edge is just covering the main bed needle heads.
***** Do not place the garment on the end needles on both the main bed and ribber bed. The cut part of the garment will be inside the sandwich.
3. Working with the front part of garment first bring needles just barely through the work. When you are satisfied that the neck line is spaced evenly across the needles bring the needles on through to position E. Check to see if any of the neck opening caught on the gate pegs. If so release at this time. Repeat for back.
4. Use your 3-prong transfer tool to pull up the ribber bed's needles as far as they will go (be careful to keep the ribber needles in front of the garment).
5. Close the ribber bed. Using the cast-on comb push main bed needles to D position. Transfer all ribber bed stitches to the main bed using your single prong transfer tool.
**** To keep your stitches from falling off, bring main bed needles to E position as you transfer.
6. All main bed needles should be in E position at this time. Drop the ribber bed to the lowest position cover the ribber bed.
7. Open all the latches.
8. Pull out at least six lengths of yarn. That is six times the length of your neckband.
9. Leave two lengths on right hand side of band. Place the yarn in the hooks of the needles.
10. Using your loop gauge, carefully, close the latches of the needles. Be sure that you have all the latches closed.
11. Using your cast-on comb, push the needles down to the top of your needle bed smoothly and evenly (needles in D position).
12. Again make sure that all the latches are closed on your needles. If not move all the needles back up and do it again.
13. Pull the yarn from the left side until there is no slack left.
14. Take your loop gauge and lay it in the rail of the main bed.
15. Starting on the right hand side pull down each needle one at a time to the loop gauge making sure that you pull the needle all the way to the gauge.
16. Carefully lay the garment over the main bed. With the Latch tool, crochet the main bed loops through from right to left, pulling yarn through the last stitch.
17. Pull up garment to release stitches.
1. Stitch up the shoulder seam
2. Stitch sleeves in to place
3. Stitch up side seams
